Dirt Candy is the best restaurant in New York City. And it may be the best restaurant in the world.
Think I am nuts? Hopefully this post will help convince you that I am on to something, even if you don't reach the exact conclusion that I have.
Dirt Candy is a cutting-edge, all vegetarian restaurant now in Manhattan's Lower East Side after many wonderful years in a super-tiny space in the East Village. We had dined once at the original location, having tried to get a reservation for months, for what was then I believe was a four-table restaurant. The wait and anticipation were definitely worth it - in addition to me loving all three of my vegetable-based courses, my husband also loved his meal despite the lack of meat or common meat substitutes.
Dirt Candy's offerings, as you are about to see, are like no other vegetarian restaurant or really no other restaurant I have ever been to. Vegetables are the star of each dish, and you can really, really taste them with amazing herbs, sauce, and other-vegetable accompaniments. And unlike too many vegetarian restaurants, you don't leave feeling either hungry from the lack of hearty food or disgusted by the amount of fat and grease used to flavor the dishes.
Ok, to the food. Our recent visit to the bright, new-ish Lower East Side location started with a serving of bread - which like everything Dirt Candy does, was unique and super delicious.
Yes! This multi-colored, moist bread is infused with vegetables - beet, carrot, and greens - and served with a room temperature savory whipped butter. Already, this feels like it's going to be the best meal ever.
I also ordered the Poolside Breeze cocktail, which was a perfect blend of cucumber and alcohol - such that my husband ordered one after I did because he liked it so much.
Our first ordered dish to come was the Korean Fried Broccoli, which was very spicy and complex with the sesame seeds, scallions, and cream on top of the barbecue sauce. The broccoli was also a perfect base because it retained its crunch despite being breaded and fried. I could eat five orders of this appetizer.
Our next small plate to come were the Curried Fries, which while being perhaps the least amazing dish we were served, were also pretty darn tasty. The "curry" flavor was sweeter and more cohesive than many I have had at Indian restaurants, and the fries were somehow really great with the fresh paneer (cheese). Both the crisp and soggy parts had enough flavor to make the texture ultimately irrelevant - hard to achieve with any french fry dish!
Now, to the larger plates, starting with the Eggplant, which was described as "mapo eggplant" with baby bok choi, pea shoots, and "eggplant sformata." Not really knowing what the last item is, this dish also blew us away, despite our well-documented love of Sichuan food. The pea shoots added a crunch and lightness to the eggplant, which was cooked multiple ways, including very lightly fried. The dish could have perhaps been slightly spicier, but again, really well done with the textures and Chinese flavors.
Our final main course were the brussels sprout tacos, which were recommended "to share." The brussels sprouts were prepared two ways and served on a sizzling stone, which kept them hot throughout our eating. Accompanying the tacos were not only the condiments you'd expect at most traditional Mexican restaurant - jalapeños, crema, queso fresco, radishes, tomatillo salsa, and limes, but also the quirk of thin tortilla strips to add into the lettuce wrap tacos. In addition, while I described the condiments as being what you would expect at other restaurants, what you wouldn't expect is the superb quality within each and every one of these tiny bowls. The onions were perfectly pickled, the crema was perfectly tangy, the queso perfectly smooth, and the salsa - oh my. How does Amanda Cohen do it?? So far, she has outdone Korean, Indian, Chinese AND Mexican restaurants.
Now to the dessert - "onion" which was comprised of a light and creamy chocolate tart with multiple forms of onion - pureed sweet onion within the tart, charred onion on the side, and I'm sure other variations of onion that I couldn't perceive! Also really well done, though the crispy onions had a slightly gummy texture that I didn't fully enjoy.
Go to Dirt Candy as soon as you can. Write a comment below. But more importantly, enjoy one of the most unique restaurants in New York City!
86 Allen Street, btwn. Grand and Broome
Lower East Side, Manhattan
4 - 5 blocks from the F train at Delancey, and the J/M/Z at Essex St. Approx. 4 blocks from the B/D trains at Grand Street as well.
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