Cosme has been one of the most popular restaurants in New York City since it opened last fall in Flatiron. The sleek space was opened by one of Mexico's most renowned chefs, Enrique Olvera, and uses local, seasonal ingredients from the Hudson Valley.
When one reads reviews of Cosme, vegetarian options are not really highlighted. Instead, the duck carnitas, uni tostada, and variety of fish options are oft-cited as can't-miss dishes.
Thankfully, having finally visited Cosme this summer, I can report that vegetarians should not just go to Cosme if dragged along by friends or significant others, rather we should be actively seeking out Cosme for its great vegetarian options. Cosme has five such choices on its menu, and each of the dishes I ordered was really well-designed and executed.
When arriving at Cosme, you first receive some crispy tortillas with a light, yet rich, pumpkin seed spread. Not sure exactly how pumpkin seeds could be transformed into such a smooth consistency without the flavor being diluted, but somehow it happens with this appetizer.
The first vegetarian dish that arrived was the enfrijolada, a tortilla smothered in the smoothest black bean or enfrijolada sauce I have ever had. And not only was the black bean sauce itself freshened by Mexican herbs, but also the simple onion, cheese and herb toppings helped lighten this otherwise heavy dish as well.
The next dish was the beets served with farmers cheese, again complimented by a perfect helping and combination of fresh herbs. The beets were also served with beet-based tortillas, which were really amazing as well - perfect size and a very light beet flavor.
I can already feel myself getting full, because that's exactly what happened at this point in the meal. But I powered forward to try what was probably the even most complex and interesting dish I ordered - the roasted eggplant and cauliflower with sesame seed "salsa" that our waitress said was one of her favorites.
Where to start on this one - the sesame seed "salsa" was like a 10x better version of tahini (sweet to complement the nutty flavor, and so, so smooth), and the eggplant and cauliflower were roasted so well. Were they maybe marinated in something beforehand to really bring out their individual flavors?
In any case, I will definitely order this again on a return trip because there were so many distinct flavors and they were also great folded into the tortillas on our table.
Ok, at this point, I am definitely over-full. But my husband ordered dessert, so I mustered the effort to try a perfect consistency and temperature panna cotta, flavored with honey and accompanied by fruit jellies.
Next time, I think I'll order one fewer dishes (2 was enough plates for me) and save room for the popular corn meringue dessert. Thankfully, Cosme is too expensive and hard to get into for every day dining, otherwise I would fear how often we would return!
35 E. 21st Street (btwn. Park and Broadway)
Flatiron, Manhattan
Approx. 2 blocks from the 6 train at 23rd Street, and the N/R trains at 23rd Street.